The capacitor I received (100MFD, 10 Volt), is 7/32″ diameter x 15/32″ long, the original is larger in diameter close to 3/8″ x 15/32″ long? I did not compare the actual size when I ordered. Should I reorder to get 1 close to the original size? Many thanks!
I have reordered a 1000uf x 10 volt. The last “0” was in the bend & hard to see. Many thanks.
Edit: seller suggested a LOW-ESR CAPACITOR, for PC repair.
The LOW-ESR is Low Impedance, according to the seller.
This is not how I wanted this to turn out. After I replaced the capacitor, & after soldiering in the new cap, I saw the damage to the printed circuit board (PCB). When I started to unsolder the old cap, the small single pointed soldering iron was not wide enough to get both leads of the old cap hot, so used larger (gun shaped) iron, the damage may have been from the removal of the old cap.
If I were to try this again, I would practice on junk PCB. I realize this is too late for this PC, but what would the preferred procedure be.
The link to pics: https://imgur.com/a/ScpAMgG
EDIT: Look all the way to end of pics for the PC motherboard pic.
rs-electron, the adapter, looks like the last resort to copy files to USB.
Many, many thanks, to all the members, for all the help!
@novice01 It looks that you did not expect these kind of failed results and clearly shows the lack of experience with double sided fine traces boards.
However:
things are not 100% lost. Those fine paralel traces can still be repaired/restored using fine strands of copper taken from a multi-stranded copper wire or a fine and flexible type of a special wire called “Kynar wire” (an insulated and silver plated fine copper wire), and then soldered with a fine tip soldering station or a classic soldering iron (gun) if you have e steady hand and use plenty of flux and ear buds and alcohol to clean every trace before and after the copper wire application. You also need a fine tip tweezers, a Stanley Knife and/or some kind of “X-acto Blade/Knife” to scrape off the green insulation/stuff from each trace where you need to solder the strands to and a magnifying glass or an electronic microscope but it is perfectly doable if you have enough patience and persistence at the job. I’ve repaired far worst than this. Another tool that is always essential in electronics when try to unsolder old components is either a manual solder sucker or a specialised desoldering gun/tool. Without it chances are you’ll do more damage than good to the traces on the board.
Ovi4, thank you for the kind words. The “silver plated fine copper wire” I have seen that in the past when scrapping, did not appreciate what I was looking at. I have read your post about the potential repair & I will need to ponder this some & study at the area in question, but I am up for it. This will take some time, I will need to work it in.
I would like to thank all the people who make this community possible, and specially all that have offered helpful suggestions about my projects. Many, many thanks!!