Dual Display Capacitor Tester my next project

@larry_n7luf as far as I know, all SMD ceramic caps, tantalum caps, resistors, Transistors, diodes, IC.s (of any kind) are safe. But not so safe are VR’s and inductors and/or transformers, SMD electrolytics and maybe some SMD LEDs

As I wait for some parts coming in, I started looking about the project box and a drill guide.

I would love to see a completed box with 18650 batteries, so I can see how it all fits inside.

It was nice when we could share pictures in side of Pateron, but not here.

Been trying to see how MCL finish box and with it labeled at some point.

For the drill guide I have seen, just shows the LED and the hole for the standoffs, and nothing for the test leads and switches.

I do not think that Paul released any drill guide with it all drill points.

@larry_n7luf PS: I must apologize for 2 misleading info on my posts above. Just realized that I have made some mistakes there. 1. when I said go to video 74 for the booster power supply I meant to say video 79 and 2. when I’ve mentioned 27.5V booster voltage output I actually meant to say 29.5V instead. Again I’m sorry. I wish that I could go back any time I want to correct the past misspelling or (“not intended”) erroneous info from my part but….there is only about 3-4 minutes time after writing your post to do it.

@larry_n7luf

Yeah Larry I would just stick with what you started and just build it to the latest version .Im thinking this tool will be refined as Mr Carlson gets more ideas on ways to improve it.I sure could use it myself .Im recapping an 8802 Magnavox tube amp right now But those are pretty simple compared to some of my upcoming projects. I know tubes but am learning a lot about electronics watching and doing .Even an old retired HvacR -Stationary engineer can learn some new tricks Good luck on those projects and keep us posted how your doing. Cheers Bill

Today I went looking to see how Mr. Carson finish capacitor looked like. I found this video that showed it.

I can see where he made the holes on the side of the box for the boost supply standoffs.

What I not sure of is the test leads on the top. It looks like a BNC on the right and a Banana plug on the right.

I am confused if this is right.

I do understand red would be the POS. and the black be the NEG.

Also is these leads shielded and can see the BNC would be, but it is the RED connector might be.

@larry_n7luf No, the red one is just a plane Jane wire and a banana Jack nothing fancy. But the black is indeed shielded and he did explain this on one of the earlier videos (but cannot recall now which one it was) I need to look up either my notes or revisit the videos at some point but black is indeed a coax cable. and yes you’ve spotted it right, the 2 bolts to the left side are indeed holding the power booster and the lockout PCB will be on top of it using the same common standoffs for both boards. However on one of the Q&A videos namely Video 147 beginning with 8:47 timestamp, he answers some “Cap Leak. Tester” questions and he is showing (possibly) another build in which you can see 2 bolts on the left (long side) and another 2 on the right (long side) and this suggests that he also added the lockout PCB on the opposite side of the Power booster. Well we already know that he has more than one build that he uses to ensure that it is all tried and trusty! well before the official release (there is no secret here).

PS: @Larry, remember that I’ve posted not long ago pictures with some of my existing but old build equipment including a miniature version of the Cap Leak. Tester and If you revisit those pictures you can see that I did the same. One of the probes uses a BNC because of the coax used and the other is just a simple wire on a Banana plug

@ovi4 I just went and re-watched video 147 and I am glad I did.

Yes I did see he had what looked like he had standoff on both sides.

I wish he was more clear about this build.
Thank you for taking notes of the video and I wonder why one wire was shielded and the other is not.

I did request the files for the lockout and the boost supply this morning.

I did ask about cleaning the PCB and this is what I got. “Lacquer thinner attacks plastics. So any soft plastic will be affected. IE: The shring tubing on capacitors, and the like.”

Just the video he said not to use Lacquer to clean the tandem for some reason.

Posted by: @ovi4

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PS: @Larry, remember that I’ve posted not long ago pictures with some of my existing but old build equipment including a miniature version of the Cap Leak. Tester and If you revisit those pictures you can see that I did the same. One of the probes uses a BNC because of the coax used and the other is just a simple wire on a Banana plug

Where are the pictures?
Are they here in the forum or in Patreon?

@larry_n7luf Yes exactly like I said earlier, watch out for electro-lithics and also said VR’s because some manufacturers use a cheaper version of an insulating washer that separates the central/moving part of the VR from the body and that tends to melt. How do I know? Because I tested it but again some big names such as Panasonic are extremely good and resilient to acetone/lacquer thinner but others …well… not so good. Now, you might think that SMD Tantalums (the light brown ones) are made of plastic and get affected but no, is not the case. They are made of some kind of special synthetic resin that is resilient to lacquer thinner.

@larry_n7luf here is the page containing lots of pictures with my old builds but you have definitely seen them and probably forgot about it… 😉 

https://mrcarlsonslab.com/community/test-equitpment/sift-device-project/#post-1368

Posted by: @ovi4

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@larry_n7luf here is the page containing lots of pictures with my old builds but you have definitely seen them and probably forgot about it… 😉 

https://mrcarlsonslab.com/community/test-equitpment/sift-device-project/#post-1368

Thank you, as I forgot about these post, as that is one of my problems with my age.

@larry_n7luf It’s ok Larry no worries. 👍

if you’re concerned at all about the lacquer thinner, the method I’ve settled on for cleaning boards is IPA alcohol and compressed air.  I have a container of IPA that I submerge the board in, wipe or lightly scrub it with an acid brush or stiffer nylon brush while in the IPA then pull it out and blast it with compressed air.  After 2 or 3 times it’s pretty much pristine.  I have an ultrasonic cleaner too but I like the results from the IPA better.