I use Leaded Kester solder but it helps me a lot to have multiple sizes. Especially with SMD components smaller than 1206. I think the smallest I use is .010″ for really small stuff.
I have used the Fire Metall Eutectic Solder from the diy audio store and it’s very nice. Can’t post a link and it’s out of stock but if you google the underlined phrase it’s the first link. You can set a notification when they get it back in stock.
Good external flux is the most important thing to use, after that smal solder diameter (0.2-0.3mm) when soldering surface mount.
When in doubt use a microcontroller.
I like to sand the outside of the solder to remove corrosion first.
At times I have used and external flux, but caution to clean it off after if its the always corrosive non-rosin type. I don’t really do this anymore as it usually is not needed.
@scotty44 Do you need silver-containing solder for vintage HP gear as well?
For leaded solder I prefer 63/37 and I have Chip Quick (I think, the label fell off years ago but it was white and rather minimalistic, so probably) in like a .032″-ish size. for the unleaded stuff I use MG Chemicals SAC305 and one of the Chip Quick flux pens, CQ4LF. Just don’t mix leaded and unleaded and frankly? both work just fine, it feely behaves different, really. I happen to have 2 soldering stations, I use my old Ungar concept 2100 for the leaded stuff and a Pace ADS200 for the SAC305. that actually could be a good tip, most of the unleaded solder works a lot nicer with more power and more heat, don’t be too sparing with a few more degrees, 390C is just fine, just be quick or you’ll start BBQ-ing components. I’d say 80 Watts would be a good figure to aim for as a minimum for unleaded.

