Ok I have scrounged up a laminator (still working on a toner printer but one thing at a time) so it seems I will probably need to slow down the feed and or increase the temperature of the unit. Where should I start?
Ok I have scrounged up a laminator (still working on a toner printer but one thing at a time) so it seems I will probably need to slow down the feed and or increase the temperature of the unit. Where should I start?
Let us know the make/model of laminator and provide links to any tech docs.
@chris-anderson speed isn’t a serious concern as long as it isn’t really fast, you will run the board through many times. Temperature will need to be rather hot, I don’t recall hearing a ballpark temperature that is optimal. Another thing to check is if the rollers will spread enough for the board to fit without binding or damaging the rollers. A laminator is still on my list to get, looks like the price went up another 70 bucks with the new year, that’s what I get for waiting.
Radios + Tubes + Scopes + Cars= Nothing better!
@radtekman Facebook marketplace is a good place to look for cheap ones.
As far as i know and MCL has mentioned it (in one or two of his videos) the optimal temperature suppose to be in the ballpark of 200 degrees CELSIUS. However, most standard (office use) laminators are (usually) tuned to 140 – 175 degrees C but the temperature stated in their specs almost never matches the reality therefore, it can actually be wildly different ! It is always bets to measure it with a proper precision instrument first. My own unit runs at around 190-197 degrees C but it varies because of the high hysteresis of the temp. sensor etc. One very effective way to precisely control the temp. would be some kind of PID style programmed micro-controller such as a simple basic arduino uno, a nano or some variation of it . Perhaps even an ATtiny 85 should (in theory) do the trick. Or you can choose the classic analog way by using some op-amp ICs and/or comparators etc.
This is the path I took. Bought a laminator from Walmart and got a temp controller from Ebay. Total cost was around $50 US about 3 years ago. [img] 
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The problem I have is I wanted to get a good one right off the bat. Metal housing and metal gears would last forever, but on the other hand it is a major price difference. Maybe start with a cheapo and see where it goes, not like I would use it that much. Could always upgrade later on I guess.
Radios + Tubes + Scopes + Cars= Nothing better!
I bought this from amazon it is adjustable to 200C, and it will take 10 mil film. I seem to be getting good results with it. I tried cheaper ones and had mixed results. You still must run the board through it multiple times. This one is about $92.00 “Electric Thermal Laminator Machine Large Laminator for A4/A3 Paper Hot/Cold Roll Laminating Machine No Bubbles Machine Size 19.7Inch Office Home Use 110V 600W” I see no model number or manufacture on it. I guess they are not very proud of their product. The important thing is it works for my projects.
I had trouble getting my stock laminator to make good transfers as well. I found that preheating the PCB, by literally setting it on a warm/hot cast iron pan for a few minutes prior to running though the laminator helped. Alternatively, a regular old fashioned linen/fabric iron did a respectable job of performing the transfer, in place of the laminator—better than my whimpy laminator for sure. I have since migrated to using a laser engraver to burn off a pre-painted (black) PCB; it does require the image to be unmirrored, and in reverse black vs white, and of course requires a laser engraver, (which I have as a modification to my 3-D printer) and ample ventilation!, to do the buning, but it results in very nice, crisp PCB masks. Reminds me of the old UV film exposure PCB masking days. Is that still a thing?
Best of luck. Persevere!